So what to do now? VYII SS Wagon auto 220rwkw

[FrangaFry]

Howdy all, I have recently had a bit of a tickle up on my VYII SS Wagon by Chev's in Carrum (and I am VERY happy with it...... ) Chev and the crew have been nice enough to do the following for me:

Dus OTR CAI
Pacemaker Tri-Y's (Staineless)
2.5" Cat back (Stainless)
3.7.3 Diff change
Tune
Auto Tranny cooler
Various bushes replaced (steering arms, Diff cradle etc)

The outcome was a respectable 220 rwkw, a nicer driver and a bloody lovely noise coming out of the arse end........ ;-)

Since getting the above done, I have spent nearly every night of the last 3 or 4 weeks trawling forums and web sites 'dreaming' of future mods............... Yes, it has come to pass that (as prophesied by other members) I WANT SOME MORE!!!

So, I am now looking (read as dreaming....) at doing the following: I have told the wife I want a project and she didn't "sh1t can" the idea so.......

1. Brake upgrade - I have been looking around and I don't think I need to spend (actually I couldn't spend) 4 or 5k on brakes as I won't be doing any track work. So I am thinking PBR2's with 330/315 slotted rotors (or a second hand set of HSV brakes?) - plus I am not sure I want to spend extra bucks on bigger wheels and new tyres to fit over huge brakes....... but I really don;t know what my options are at the moment.... still learning..... some guidence would be appreciated....

2. Suspension change - I don 't want my car lowered but would like some shockers/springs and possibly sway bar upgrade(s)/added (Pedders can do a 'package' for about $1,800 to $2,000) but not sure what you guys would recommend as (once again) I really don't know what to look out for here. End of the day it won't see the track but I do live in the hills and do quite alot of hill driving and would like to get rid of that 'boat' feeling....

3. Cam and possibly head work - With my initial mods, I have 220rwkw and would like to push this up to 250 or 260rwkw without messing too much with the 'pig' factor. A little lump would be nice with a big dash of torque and i'm not that interested in top end power (but obviously still want that 'over taking' power available for those long country/highway drives).

4. Tranny 'toughen up' - My tranny is the standard VYII SS 4 spd Auto (with an added tranny cooler) and I have noticed that even with only 220rwkw, that it gets a big thump when going from 1st to 2nd and although I have been told that it should handle up to 300rwkw, I would love to know your thoughts (what can be done to this tranny to toughen it up and would it be worth it?) any ideas/experiences here would be appreciated....) I have also been told that I would need a stall converter fitted but this is totally foreign to me and I don't really understand why I need one and what the benefits/downside would be (I do tow with this car, not heaps, but I do throw the odd trailer on and the odd camper van)

At the end of the day I still don't want a fire breathing, petrol eating, lumpy bad boy, but rather some more 'shooozzzzzzsh' of the mark (read as 'torque......'), a nice driver (as it will still be my daily for some time to come....) with a bit more balls, that is tighter all round but with some stopping power and a tranny that will stand up to the odd thrash........

So sorry for the long winded questions. I will be talking to Chev about all of the above at some stage, but just wanted to find out some info first before I start sounding like d1ck.......

What do you think I would be looking at to achieve all of the above (cost wise) and labour will need to be a factor as I don't have the brains, skills, mates or tools to do any of the above myself.

I would very much appreciate any info/thoughts that you could share with me so that I can start to word the wife up......... ;-)

Thanks to all,

[Wonky]

From memory the VZ Monaro and SSZs had slightly better brakes than standard that would probably do for what you want with some better pads and not be very dear secondhand.

For suspension I’d definitely contact the guys at Protek (Bridgestone) in Oakleigh. The owner (Black Diamond) and most of the guys who work there are on this forum and will give you absolutely no BS advice and do great prices, especially if you mention you are on the forum. BD doesn't get on here much now, so best to ring them. (03) 9569 0834

Head/cam is something to talk to Chev about – can’t really help you there but FWIW Chev is offering 15% discount on cam work over $3k for subscribers to his website if commenced before the end of March, so good time to be looking!

Chev can also adjust your trans so it no longer thumps into 2nd. Apart from that I’d leave it if/until it starts playing up and then look at a strengthening rebuild.

[Tryhard]

Sounds like you have a good plan there,pbr do a pretty good break kit,I just have the twin piston with the slotted rotors and couldn't be happier with it and they still clear my 18" rims.,not sure on the 6 piston though. As for head and cam work,a cam is your best bang for buck mod,I really don't think you"ll need head work though to be honest,you will make small gains out of it but not much. At the end of the day it's up to you,speak to chev as he's doing the work and just tell him what you want and expect. My stock tranny was holding up to cammed and blown vy ss making 490 hp at the rears,that was pushing it to the limits though,it should be fine with just a cam,comes down to the tune but that's just my experience,speak to chev again and don't just take my word for it. Always speak to your engine builder/tuner to be on the safe side,good luck and don't catch the power monster.

[FrangaFry]

Thanks for the info guys,

I have spoken to Protek today and a quick chat about options has revealed that a simple shocker change will most likely sort me out (if I am still unhappy then I can look at Whiteline sway bar replacement front and rear - sounds like a good price too - approx $650 installed). The suggestion for shocks was for Munro GT sports all round. I have since spoken to another mob and I can get the same shocks installed for $550. I also spoke to peders who suggested GSR replacements, but this would require springs to be replaced as well (which would lower the car 25mm as these don't support standard height in wagons - which I don't really want to do, especially given my exhaust hangs a little lower now......). So what are your thoughts on Munro GT sports all round? Any experience with these shocks?

Brakes:
- This is a real stumper, as my options seem VERY limited if I stick with 17" wheels.......... The general consensus I am getting from suppliers is that the PBR2's would not achieve the braking upgrade that I am after (as they are only 'marginally' better than the standard brakes?????); I have also looked into the Harrop 4 pot (Performance package - 343 rotters, 4 piston etc) but I am getting the same feedback from everyone I speak to - these were taken off the market due to 'squeel' which could not be resolved???? As a result, my options are growing slimer........ any suggestions, I am looking around for second hand HSV but good god these seem to go quick,,.,,,

Any advice???

Chee5rs,

[FrangaFry]

Ok, after some 'deep thought', quite a few discussions with various re sellers, installers, work mates (and after a good hard talking to from the 'banker') I have decided that BIGGER is not necessarily better (sounds like sour grapes huh........... and seeing as I don't have the funds, you'd be right!)........ so to get me in the right direction without the wife leaving me, I have been convinced that the following will handle my daily (non track, average spirited hill driving) needs.

Koni Specials (standard height) to keep the ride height as standard.
DBA slotted Brake Disks (full set)
Bendix SRT Pads

I'm also considering braided brake hose(s) but not sure if this is overkill given the upgrade path I am taking (any advice/experience would be appreciated).

So, any thoughts on the above? (Plus, this also leaves me with some 'negotiating' room with the boss, when it comes time to talk cam upgrade .............. *cough*, I mean engine strengthening in the near future).

As always, thanks for your thoughts and replies, for a noob like me, they are invaluable......

;-)

[xmas]

My 2c is your wasting your money on any brake work. Wait for bits to wear out replace what you have with something a bit better when the time comes. Ie. pads or rotors.

Your first post basically says you want a bit of everything....you don't track the car

In a few years sell that car and buy one with the work done and money lost by someone else.....

[FrangaFry]

G'day xmas, I have spent the night thinking about what you have said above (as it is very valid), but a couple of things have driven me down this path (but I do understand what you are saying).

I love my wagon, and I have just made the decision to keep it for a few more years. The brakes that are on there now, are on their last machine (as they will be under tolerance when the next machine is due and would need to be replaced anyway). I honestly believe I need to do 'something' to my brakes, as I have already had a moment or 2 since the tune has been done (stepped too hard on the gas and when needed the brakes and suspension didn't pull me up as quick as I would have liked ........... I had to make the 'face' (you know the one, the oh-my-god face as you stamp on the brakes and they don't do what you hoped they would .......) so the suggested 'basic' brake and suspension mods should help this situation out (without the wife leaving me or me having to sell all my fishing gear to pay for it.....) - and YES I know, I probably shouldn't be going hard on the road (I don't do it very often, but it is nice to hear the roar and feel the grunt..... that is why we all do this yes?).

I know what you are saying about buying a car that has already been modded, but I have been down this path before (I was the proud recipient of the Peter Starr 'Starr Performance' VT GTS some years back and it was GREAT). I loved owning and driving this car (it had ALL the bells and whistles for it's day) but, I didn't do the mods or have any input into them, so it was sort of hollow. I also fell into the old 'it's too nice a car to drive and park where d1ckh...ds can damage it" trap and as such in the 5 years that I owned it, I only put about 25,000km on the clock (and most of this was interstate driving).......

So here I am, a few years down the track, I have a stock SS Wagon (which I adore) and I Just want to give it a little TLC and revive the driving love I had for it when I first got the car. The mods I want to do are not over the top, and yes all up, it will cost me a few grand but I think the car deserves it.

Appreciate your thoughts though buddy, as they DID make me re think what I am doing. But, on reflection, I am very comfortable outlaying a bit of coin to get back that 'want to go for a drive' feeling and also to give me a bit of piece of mind when I have the family in the car.

Sooooo, any thoughts on the braided brake line folks? Does this make an actual difference, or is this just pedal 'feel'.

Thanks again to all for comments and thoughts, they are ALL good.

;-)

[dgp]

FrangaFry,
I have just removed the 330/315 HSV performance brakes from my VZ Clubsport and upgraded to the R8 spec AP's. I have not advertised them yet but send me a PM if you want any more info. I'm not sure if they will fit under 17's though.

[surfwagon]

Re your suspension mods.
If you are staying with std FE2 springs then Monroe Gt sports will be too soft and you will find your front "diving" when coming off speed humps etc.
GT sports are designed to help make heavy duty lowered (lower than FE2) springs have a softer ride.
Monroe GT Gas are better suited to softer springs like FE2.
I tired GT Sports with my Senator but kept grounding the front spoiler coming off speed humps if I was travelling at anything more than a crawl.
I have Koni Yellow sports adjustables all round with the HSV springs now and I can negotiate most speed humps at close to normal speed like std cars.
I have also fitted 30mm and 18mm whiteline swaybars (up from HSV 28 + 14mm) and combined with the Koni's give me all the handling I need.
IMHO I would still upgrade your brakes to at least the HSV 330/315 setup like "dgp" is selling and couple thses with braided lines will give your wagon some nice brakes.


__________________________________________________ ____________
senator http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=121025
dyno http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=137278

[FrangaFry]

FrangaFry,
I have just removed the 330/315 HSV performance brakes from my VZ Clubsport and upgraded to the R8 spec AP's. I have not advertised them yet but send me a PM if you want any more info. I'm not sure if they will fit under 17's though.

PM sent buddy,

[xmas]

I changed to pbr m series kit which is amazing..... Car stops twice as fast as it goes.... But to use their potential on the street is rare

The original 300mm 2 piston fronts and smaller 1 piston rears still worked fine with slotted rotors

Done suspension mods too and would recommend that ahead of brakes.

My car had a cam already plus bolt ons.....and I get to show off the hp on the street more than suspension and brakes lol, track is a different story

[dgp]

PM sent buddy,

Just sent you an email (4MB) with pics and info.

[Mick1]

FrangaFry,
I have just removed the 330/315 HSV performance brakes from my VZ Clubsport and upgraded to the R8 spec AP's. I have not advertised them yet but send me a PM if you want any more info. I'm not sure if they will fit under 17's though.

Hav got Hsv upgrade on my car & its running 17's.

[surfwagon]

Both the early VT-VY HSV's brake upgrades, performance 330/315 and Harrops 343/315 fit under "HSV" VT-VY 17's but not all aftermarket 17's.


__________________________________________________ ____________
senator http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=121025
dyno http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=137278

[andrewslr]

Regarding suspension mods I had a VZ LS1 Berlina wagon (yep, a rarity) that I had the following suspension work done. On the front I had a set of TEIN coilovers fitted (height adjustable only) and superpro bushes. On the rear went a set of BOGE short body shocks and King low springs. The transformation was day and night and the car drove and rode beautifully and handled a dream, very flat when cornering and a very controlled feeling.

All the work was done by Nathan at Advantage Suspension in Moorabin. Parts, labour and alignment were well under $1900 at the time.